These are IMPERFECT casts! A friend has been helping me with slush casting and is still learning, plus this junk mold was exceptionally tough to work with. These are casts from the junk mold of the Moffmang sculpture.

The junk mold is taken from the original clay sculpture so it has more air bubble surface domes and casting are one piece instead of a separate jaw and top. Also notice that the hard surface eye rings present in the production versions are missing. However, these are useable casts with a little extra work! If you decide to cut the jaw from the top head PLEASE go slow, be careful- remember this sculpt took an x-acto thumb tax from me back in October! ( still has nerve damage!) This tutorial will help you make the cuts and this is the tutorial I made for the Moffmang ears and eyes. Here is a link to the entire collection of tutorials.

Some of these casts have thick and thin parts and some have gloppy, uneven insides that don’t affect the overall structure of the mask but can be dremeled down if desired.

I have filled in thin edges with lightweight epoxy putty.

MASK A- GLOPPY INSIDE

MASK B- GLOPPY INSIDE

MASK C – INSIDE CHIN A LITTLE GLOPPY

MASK D- LEFT INSIDE IS VERY THICK

MASK E- OOPS, I MISSED E ON THE LABELING, MASK E DOES NOT EXIST

MASK F- VERY THICK N GLOPPY INSIDE CHIN

MASK G- GLOPPERINO

MASK H- NOT TOO GLOPPY

MASK I- HOLE IN SIDE JAW, GLOPPY INSIDE CHIN

Please read my policy page and the mask care page for more details on ordering and policy.

– I strongly recommend that the buyer have familiarity with finishing masks, models, props or some crafting knowledge or the desire to learn on their own. This is not a beginner project. I cannot provide help beyond what has been provided here. A lot of new people are finding my work thanks to this piece and I really REALLY must be clear about this. I cannot provide refunds once the order is placed.

– TUTORIALS FOR EARS AND EYES ARE HERE!

-Please download the silhouette art for the ears here!

The original was sculpted in clay, this is not a 3D print.

Any information about shipping status, production delays or anything else customers need to know will be updated in the news section. Please refer to this before inquiring about an order you placed: http://missmonster.myshopify.com/blogs/news

-Please order to your current, correct address. If you may be moving soon, please have it sent to a friend. I cannot send a mask to an address that is different from the one included in your order as it will negate seller shipping protection.

– Buyer will receive a fulfillment email once the mask is packed and another email with tracking once it ships. PLEASE check your spam filters!

-The photos of the finished mask is just to show what can be done.

The basics:

– This is for a MOFFMANG BLANK raw cast kit that includes one (1) top head, one (1) bottom jaw. All pieces will be tinted grey and cast in a slightly flexible urethane. All pieces will be unfinished, untrimmed , unpainted casts.

– There are tutorials are here, including how to cut into the urethane to remove the eye holes: https://missmonster.myshopify.com/blogs/news/tutorial-collection

This tutorial shows how to hinge a jaw: https://missmonster.myshopify.com/blogs/news/robodogman-tutorials

I ended up using a pair of flat 2″ wide ( not length) elastic near the inner jaw hinges and another 1″ wide pair of elastic strips on both side of the inner middle jaw to help pull it up after flexing. The length of the mask makes the elastic a bit tricky but the extra elastic seems to work well. There are many ways to do this so please be sure to check out all the tutorials that are out there!

The ears can be attached using epoxy glue for the initial hold with plumbers putty for a firm reinforcing hold, apoxie clay to fill in gaps ( it can be smoothed and blended into the surface with water and a small brush) or to save weight use free form air. Buyer will need to adjust and trim the rim of the ear bottom bases ( the bottom part of the ear that will touch the wearer’s head) to their own fit.

– These will take a lot of work to finish. The buyer will need to sand/remove the flash edges, fill any small surface air bubbles , sand imperfections, cut out eye holes and assemble. I recommend familiarity with putty, epoxy clay, dremels , industrial hot glue and the safety precautions that should be taken when working with these materials.

– I strongly recommend that the buyer have familiarity with finishing masks, models, props or some crafting knowledge or the desire to learn on their own. This is not a beginner project. I cannot provide help beyond what has been provided here. A lot of new people are finding my work thanks to this piece and I really REALLY must be clear about this.

– A plastic nipper, a rasp , sandpaper or a dremel can be used to refine edges.You can even use carving tools. Here is a little more detailed info. Buyer should add upholstery foam to the inside of the mask once it is finished to customize the fit. Flat elastic straps across the back of the mask will make it stay on your head. Some craft/paint/kit building knowledge is recommended. I cannot provide build help beyond the info included here and in links provided.

– Please be sure to provide the correct address when placing your order, all orders will be shipped to the address im provided with and cannot be changed after the order is placed. I will have to cancel your order and ask you to re-order with the correct one. No exceptions, sorry!

– There are no refunds on pre-orders.

– Please do not buy a mask if any of the above is an issue!

– If you want any more info on buying from my shop please go through the FAQ/policy page in my shop: http://missmonster.myshopify.com/pages/f-a-q

Mask info:

– You will receive a BLANK urethane mask kit . The finished photos are just an example of what the mask can look like when completed.

– Once sanding/finishing is complete the mask can be primed with any spray primer and painted with acrylics or whatever you prefer. Wash your mask with dish soap first to remove any oils or dirt. Seal with clear coat to prevent scuffs after painting.

– While there is no industry standard for handmade urethane mask thickness, i try to keep a good balance of durability and a light weight. Buyer may add to any thin spots with lightweight putty or subtract any thickness with a dremel or carving tool. Everyone has a personal preference for how thick/thin they want their mask and there is no way to predict this preference between individuals.

– Elastic bands can be used for straps. Please be sure to roughen or “score” the inside part of the mask where the straps will attach. This will help the adhesive stick properly.

– This urethane is sensitive to heat. Please keep it out of direct sunlight as it can warp under it’s own weight when hot. If the mask does not fit, It can be heat shaped by using a hairdryer or heat gun to warm the surface and inside. Gently open the mask by holding and spreading both sides while warm to make it wider. Set the shape you want by immersing the warm mask in cold water or leaving on an upturned bowl or object to hold the shape while it cools.

– This is a project that should be attempted by adults or under adult supervision. Please read all safety warnings on materials you use. I am not responsible for any injuries sustained while customizing these masks.

-This mask fits most faces but a perfect fit is not guaranteed. Cannot be worn with glasses.

– Do not use this as safety equipment or a welding mask or anything else but costuming. Use common sense, please. I am not responsible for injuries sustained through improper use of this mask.

By purchasing this you acknowledge that you have read and agree with the shop’s policy page and have read and agree to comply with all of the information on this page.

I have a TON of tutorials and process/creation information on my patreon!